Pearls have been with me from the beginning. Long before I had a studio. Unlike many gems, which are usually cut to define their shape and enhance their brilliance, the pearl develops its surface and its light as it grows inside the mollusk. It does not need facets to have character: the nacre does that work.
There are very round and regular ones, and there are those that defy any pattern. The latter are the ones that attract me the most: baroque pearls. No two are alike and, when I design with them, the shape of each pearl ends up participating in the piece of jewelry itself.
What is a baroque pearl?
A baroque pearl is a pearl with an irregular shape, lacking the symmetry of a perfectly round pearl. It can feature curves, reliefs, flatter areas, or a completely free-form silhouette.
"Baroque" describes the shape, not the origin of the pearl. Both natural and cultured pearls can have irregular shapes. In cultured pearls, the final shape depends on how the pearl grows inside the mollusk and how its layers are deposited. Not all are formed around the same type of nucleus, so I prefer to talk about their growth and nacre without simplifying a process that changes according to the type of pearl.
Within the non-perfectly round shapes, we find semi-baroque and circled pearls, as well as free-form silhouettes that are very distinct from one another. There are also keshi pearls, typically without a bead nucleus and consisting essentially of nacre, which tend to have an especially organic appearance.
A word tied to pearls
Even the name is related to their shape. The term "baroque" has historically been linked to the Portuguese barroco, used to describe an irregular pearl, although the ultimate origin of the word is not entirely settled.
That irregularity also inspired Renaissance jewelers, who incorporated whimsically shaped pearls into figurative pendants and let the pearl itself suggest part of the design. It is an idea that I still feel very close to: instead of forcing the pearl to fit into a preconceived shape, letting the piece be born from what is already there before me.
Why I like baroque pearls so much
The round pearl has a fixed place in my studio, but the baroque ones allow me something more: for each piece of jewelry to be different from the start. When one reaches my hands, I look at it, turn it between my fingers, and search for the setting that best complements its shape. If it has a curve, a relief, or a beautiful asymmetry, I try to make it the center of the piece.
I work with cultured pearls of different tones and shapes, and I combine them with the materials and finishes of each design. Earrings, chokers, brooches, or special pieces: their irregularity gives them a natural character that works just as well in an everyday jewel as in something designed for a specific occasion.
How to choose a baroque pearl
In a baroque pearl, I wouldn't look for the "perfection" of the shape. I would look at the whole and, above all, how the pearl responds to light and to the design. These are the aspects I take into account the most:
- Luster. The best pearls return vivid and defined reflections. A dull luster diminishes the presence of the piece.
- Surface. Small irregularities are part of their nature. Cracks or damage that could affect durability are a different matter.
- Shape. In a baroque pearl, there is no universally better silhouette. The choice depends on what makes that pearl special and how it dialogues with the design.
- Color and orient. Beyond the base color, some pearls display nuances and iridescence that change with the light.
- The setting. The jewelry should take advantage of the pearl's shape, not just hold it. For me, that is a large part of the design process.
In pieces like the Little Birds Pearl Brooch, each cultured pearl has its own irregular shape. That means the piece of jewelry that reaches your hands will not be identical to any other, and that difference is part of its value.
How to care for your baroque pearls
- Put them on last. Perfumes, hairspray, and cosmetics can damage them, so it is best to apply these products before putting on the jewelry.
- Clean them after wearing. Wipe them with a soft cloth to remove traces of sweat or cosmetics. Avoid harsh cleaners and chemical products.
- Store them separately. A pouch or case made of soft fabric helps prevent rubbing against harder pieces that could scratch their surface.
- Wear them without fear, but take care of them. They don't need to stay tucked away. If you wear them frequently, it is enough to be especially careful with cosmetics, heat, and prolonged sweat.
Frequently asked questions about baroque pearls
Are baroque pearls natural?
"Baroque" describes the shape, not whether the pearl is natural or cultured. There are natural and cultured pearls with irregular shapes. In my work, I use cultured pearls, selected precisely for their shape, their luster, and the character they bring to each design.
Is a baroque pearl worth less than a round one?
A pearl cannot be valued solely by its shape. Size, color, luster, surface, and the quality of the nacre also play a role. With all other factors being equal, a perfectly round pearl is usually rarer and more valuable; a baroque one, on the other hand, can be especially attractive due to its uniqueness and how it integrates into a specific piece of jewelry.
Are all baroque pearls the same?
No. Precisely what defines them is their irregularity. Even within a single selection, the silhouette, reliefs, color, and the way they reflect light will vary.
A jewel that is like no other
When someone chooses a piece of jewelry with a baroque pearl, they are choosing a piece in which nature has already done part of the design. I only try to listen to that shape and work in its favor.
Perhaps that is why I still like them so much after so many years: each pearl forces you to look anew, and each piece of jewelry begins in a different way.
